14th OVI / 3rd Arkansas Civil War Reenactors
Civilian How To Dress Page
How to Get Dressed in the 1860s
Putting 19th Century Clothing on in the Right Order. Getting dressed with the full amount of ladies 1860s attire can be confusing. This listing is a general example of what to wear and the order in which to put it on.
Chemise
Drawers
Socks and Shoes
Corset
Petticoat
Corded Petticoat *or* cage/hoop
Underskirt
Dress
Apron (opt)
Bonnet/slat bonnet
Gloves
Explanation of above terms and common uses:
Chemise: A chemise is like an undershirt or slip. It keeps the corset from resting next to the skin and causing irritation. It will also protect your dress from perspiration and soil. Commonly also worn as a nightgown by the lower economic classes. It is never worn where the public can see it.
Drawers: Drawers are the 19th Century underwear. The split crotch will facilitate the ease of bathroom activities. They also will protect your upper thighs from chaffing.
Socks and Shoes: Stockings were white or light colored usually, and they were held up with garters. Shoes should be comfortable, with square toes and a small heel. While you are saving up to buy authentic shoes, you can sometimes get by with ankle boots. Make sure they have no crepe soles, speed laces and metal grommets. Put these on before corset and cage while you can still bend over!
Corset: This takes the place of the modern bra and gives the dress the correct look. THIS SHOULD BE YOUR FIRST PURCHASE! Get a good corset that is from a reputable seamstress. It ís very important the corset fits right. A good corset will be comfortable.
Petticoat: This is a narrow slip worn under the cage or corded petticoat. It is worn for modesty and sometimes made of flannel for extra warmth.
Corded Petticoat *or* cage/hoop: Corded petticoat is worn instead of a cage when a working look is desired. Cages are often higher fashion or are worn into town for middle class women. A corded petticoat would be safer in camp around the fire. Cages are worn with nice day dresses or ball gowns. Max diameter for a hoop should be 110" (unless you're very tall or very short)
Underskirt: Often called a petticoat today, this was really called an underskirt in 1860. It is a larger circumference petticoat to fit over the cage hoop. It helped cover up the hoop's lines and soften the skirt's look. Two or three underskirts could be worn (and often were). Sometimes the top underskirt was patterned or embroidered and meant to show.
Dress: a day dress was a nice dress worn into town for shopping or visiting friends. We call them day dresses to differentiate between these from work dresses. These are reenactor terms. Dresses were mostly one piece. Work dresses are mainly cotton and button in front. They have gathered bodices. Day dresses are not cotton, but wool, silk or taffeta with darted bodices.
Apron (opt): for a camp activity an apron is good over your work dress. A pinner apron has a bib that pins to the bodice. Either the pinner variety or just a regular apron without a bib is correct. Aprons can tie or button around the waist. Aprons were printed calicos. The white/beige aprons were the nurses' aprons. Some fancy aprons were black silk and meant for indoor wear while sewing or having ladies in for tea.
Bonnet/slat bonnet: ladies always had their head covered when outside, and frequently wore a decorative net on their heads indoors too. An appropriate net would be close to the wearers hair color and made of fine crochet thread or thin velvet ribbon. Slat bonnets were worn very frequently with work dresses and sometimes cages. Hats are only appropriate for unmarried, fashionable young ladies.
Gloves: ladies wore gloves when outdoors. Also, everyone (men and women) wore gloves for dancing.
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